WARNING: This post is NOT historically accurate. Please don’t tell me, I know. This is a blog post for costumers who NEED to make the thing, but can’t spend the time digging through countless sources/opinions or money on all the most accurate and perfect fabrics.
Now, of course you shouldn’t just run in blind. There are some important factors to keep in mind and important layers. I’m going to break down a standard costume by layer with some links sprinkled in for good measure (and hopefully the linked blogs all stay active). Also the easiest method will usually be to purchase a pattern, though the cheapest method will be to draft it yourself. I’ll be focusing on somewhere in the middle, but will provide a couple options.
To start, here is a lovely video by Prior Attire with all the layers:
Shift
Shifts are pretty versatile and you can make them work for multiple historical eras. This layer you will want to be a natural fiber if possible since it is sitting on your skin and can help keep you from overheating. They’re usually made out of linen, but you can use some old cotton bed sheets if you have access to them. Theoretically you could also get away with a white tank top, but don’t quote me on that.
Cheapest: Sharon Burnston has a page on making 18th century shifts and there are probably a few blog posts out there on how to draft your own regency shift.
Easiest: If you are purchasing a pattern for your stays, you may end up with a shift pattern as well. See below.
Stays
A good pair of stays are the most important foundational layer to get the right silhouette, though some people have successfully worn a push up bra. Whatever you have the time or resources for is always the best option. Here is a pretty good overview of different shapes and types of regency stays, though the cheapest in terms of fabric needed and easiest in terms of least amount of fitting would be a pair of short stays. You generally will use a sturdy cotton fabric stiffened with cording instead of bones. Who has time for cording though? I’ve seen a ton of people just sandwich two layers of cotton between a thick canvas and if boning is required you can use zip ties. This is another piece that is probably best if at least the inner layer is a natural fabric for your comfort since it is the tightest part of the whole costume.
Cheapest: I found a blog post on drafting your own short stays.
Easiest: The theatrical version of Laughing Moon #115 with front lacing is the option I went with, but there are many regency short stays patterns out there so pick your favorite.
Petticoat
You can probably skip a petticoat depending on how you make the gown or if you end up lining your gown. However, this can also be the easiest piece you make. You can sew two rectangles together, pleat them by eye, and throw some straps on top. If you would rather a more solid top, you can take the bodice from your gown pattern.
Cheapest: Self drafted, or eyeballing it a la Micarah Tewers
Easiest: Laughing Moon #132 is a whole pattern for a bodiced petticoat, bum roll, and pocket
Gown
The section you’ve all been waiting for. I haven’t even made my first gown yet and am still stuck in the support garments, but there are many patterns and blog posts available out there. And since there are so many patterns and drafting instructions, I will instead focus on fabrics and styles. Always remember piecing is period. If you have just too little fabric for the perfect length or width, piece it together and make it work. You can have the most amazing gown with as little fabric as possible, and since regency tends to take the least amount of fabric of the historical costuming community (until the 1920s of course), you can get away with spending way less on fabric. Whatever you have or whatever you can find at your local fabric shop works, of course. If you’re going with the white on white look, you can find some nice cotton lawn or gauze at Dharma Trading Co. You don’t have to do white though. There are historical colors and patterns you can see in extant gowns and fashion plates, but if you don’t care about historical accuracy you can choose any fabric that suits your fancy. I’m personally a huge fan of the juxtaposition of modern and historical (the whole vibe behind historybounding tbh) so I highly recommend you make the dress of your dreams and don’t mind the gatekeepers. If you love the Bridgerton costumes, you probably feel this way anyway.
Accessories
This is the most fun way to add on to your costume or switch up an old costume. Since the dresses tend to be simple (not necessarily of course), the accessories make more of an impact on the whole vibe of your costume. Also most of these can be found in your own home or at a thrift stores or just ask to borrow stuff from your friends. The nicest part about being historically accurate here is that regency folks didn’t care about matching all their accessories, so just stick with a general theme or color pallet and you’ll be golden.
Spencer/Open Robe: A great way to add visual interest to your plain white gown (any gown, really) is to add a spencer or an open robe, depending on how casual or formal you want to be. These can take very little amounts of fabric, especially if you make a short and sleeveless spencer and you might be able to get away with using thrifted bed sheets. Black Snail has a spencer pattern that I’ve heard good things about.
Fichu: These can be extremely simple like just a triangle or squares with some ruffles and you can use any lightweight fabric such as the cotton gauze from Dharma linked above.
Shawl: If you’re like me and own way too many scarves for one sane person to own, you likely have something that would work. You can also find large scarves and shawls at thrift stores very easily.
Jewelry: You can find costume jewelry for very cheap, especially fake pearls. Look at paintings and fashion plates for inspiration, but also just follow your heart.
Gloves: You can forgo gloves if you can’t deal with them, but you can find vintage gloves pretty easily or costume gloves.
Stockings: You can also forgo stockings if you want to, or just go modern.
Reticule: Bags of this era can get pretty silly, which I personally love. For patterns I found a knit pineapple purse that is pretty popular, a beautiful crochet bag, and a fabric drawstring bag. Drawstring reticules remind me of dice bags and Crown Royal bags, and if you’re lucky you may already own or be able to thrift something that will work with your look.
Shoes: Historical regency shoes look very similar to modern ballet flats and if you want to go the extra mile you can paint them with Angelus paints and add embellishments to go with your dress.
Hair: Is hair an accessory? This is more of a lack of an accessory (hat), and a tip that modern hair can ruin your whole historical outfit if that’s your priority. The blog Locks of Elegance has some great step by step instructions for historical hair and you can add various small hair pieces to your liking.
Hopefully this helps someone else as much as it helped me to write it all out. I plan on updating this post with my own experience as I get through my project and if you have any other helpful tips or corrections, please let me know!
Note: Please avoid Sense and Sensibility Patterns. I’ve encountered many old blog posts that still recommend them and sing their praises and unfortunately it has since come out that the owner is involved in some weird bullshit. Look it up if you’re curious.
Dropout Daisy 